diff --git a/2021-08-23-welcome-to-jekyll.markdown b/2021-08-23-welcome-to-jekyll.markdown deleted file mode 100644 index 99bb431..0000000 --- a/2021-08-23-welcome-to-jekyll.markdown +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8 +0,0 @@ ---- -layout: post -title: "Put this bugger up" -date: 2021-08-23 15:16:20 -0500 ---- -On this date, I managed to bring this site up, after many (2) attempts. - -That's it. Run along now. Shoo! diff --git a/2021-11-09-whangarei.md b/2021-11-09-whangarei.md index e733153..df535d6 100644 --- a/2021-11-09-whangarei.md +++ b/2021-11-09-whangarei.md @@ -4,17 +4,31 @@ title: "Whangarei & Tutukaka" category: [Travel] date: 2021-11-03 21:25:00 +0200 --- ->In Progress +A short several hour bus drive north of Auckland lay the medium township of Whangarei - one of the last bastions of the mighty Kaori, and gateway to the Poor Knights Islands. ![Tutukaka Seabird](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/tutukaka_seabird.jpg) -White-naped Petrel in flight in Tutukaka bay, near Poor Knight's Islands +White-naped Petrel in flight in Tutukaka bay. -A short several hour bus drive north of Auckland lay the medium township of Whangarei - one of the last bastions of the mighty Kaori, and the only one near civilization. Whangarei (pronounced Fangarei - Wh is F in Te Reo - as I learned from the amused bus driver when boarding for 'Pangarei'. Yikes.). Wait. Anyway. Whangarei is not a typical stop on the route of most backpackers (defenitley not the 'Hummus Trail' of Israeli backpackers), who head straight up north to the Bay of Islands. Myself, however, keen to visit every nook and cranny in Aotearoa I could easily reach, opted for a few daysen-route north - and I'm very glad I did. -All around the township lay a special type of forest - a Kaori forest. The Kaori is a *dinosaur tree* - an old, now rare organism of great beauty. Kaoris are mildly basic - and as they shed bark and leaves the ground becomes basic as well, denying other trees and enriching new Kaoris. The forests they inhabit are interspread with grouping of young Kaori around an elder tree amongst clumps of hardy ferns, trees, and tree ferns. +I arrived dressed for cold weather from southen Auckland - I have yet to wrap my head around the idea it gets *warmer* up north and *colder* down south in this side of the world (a mistake I thankfully did not repeat in Aotearoa's deep south). I had also stupidly decided to arrive on a Sunday - during which I did not recall had no public transport whatsoever. Add that to my insistence on booking a hostel just on the outskirts of town, and that all makes for a rough, sweaty Sunday morning. + +As soon as I accepted my fate of walking two hours uphill to my hostel, a nice couple with a pickup truck offered my a ride, which I politely declined. + +'Nonsense! it's a really long walk! hop on in, we'll show you around!' + +We took a drive around town, and these kind folk made sure to show me everything - where to get groceries, which bus to take, and how to reach local hotpots. + +'Imagine if you'd gone all that uphill!' The lady told me, smiling. They finally dropped me off and offered my fresh pizza, which I politely declined. + +That's Kiwi hospitality for you! + +My hostel lay next to the Whangarei falls and the forest - which I eagerly went off too as soon as I got settled, as that was something I had really looked into from my research back home. + + +All around the township of Whangarei lay a special type of forest - a Kaori forest. The Kaori is a *dinosaur tree* - an old, now rare organism of great beauty. Kaoris are mildly basic - and as they shed bark and leaves the ground becomes basic as well, denying other trees and enriching new Kaoris. The forests they inhabit are interspread with grouping of young Kaori around an elder tree amongst clumps of hardy ferns, trees, and tree ferns. Being rare and relatively slow growing, Kaori forest are surrounded by lush Kiwi bush, at the heart of which lay the Kaori heartlands - traversing these phases is quite the experience. @@ -27,10 +41,10 @@ After the rough, unformed terrain of Rangitoto just a day prior, the rich forest ![Whangerei Ferns](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/whangarei_ferns.jpg) -My hostel was a mere five minutes from Whangarei Falls - a magnificent gateway to the Kaori heartlands. At the end of each day, you can simply opt for a short walk through nature and circle back to the falls - a priviledge I remember fondly to this day. What a life! +My hostel was a mere five minutes from Whangarei Falls - a magnificent gateway to the Kaori heartlands. At the end of each day, you can simply opt for a short walk through nature and circle back to the falls - a priviledge I remember fondly to this day. How strange it was to walk around gob-smacked with my camera and make way for runners out and about their day, and emerge from the woods to families laying the meadow, eating and laughing. What a life! ![Whangerei Falls](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/whangarei_falls.jpg) -I really enjoyed slipping into my sneakers and coming here to read a good book as the sun set. When I could no longer read clearly in the fading light - I would back. +I really enjoyed slipping into my sneakers and coming here to read a good book as the sun set. When I could no longer read clearly in the fading light - I would turn back. Once you wander deep enough into the forest, you'll encounter a fence, alongside a carpet and a spray bottle to disinfect your shoes - the Kaori are suspectpable to a fungus which grows outside, and so you sanitize before entering. This was a local act of pride - under the slogan 'Save our Kaori!'. How kind! @@ -69,3 +83,61 @@ I stayed for a relatively long time in Whangarei - about as much as I have in Au ![Whangarei Manuka](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/whangarei_manuka.jpg) A *Manuka* bush, common throughout New Zealand. The honey made from the Manuka is a prized delicacy. + + +The travellers that do end up in Whangarei usually stop by for a different reason - the Tutukaka Coast. +About an hour off the shore of the small, colorful township of Tutukaka lay a site of magnificent beauty - the Poor Knights Islands. I had long anticipated snorkeling there, and managed to secure an amazingly clear day for it. + +I booked a shuttle to the Tutukaka coast with a kind, happy local gentleman - and we had a wonderful conversation about the area, life, New Zealanders, Israelis and Kiwi fruit. + +'The people are not named after the fruit!' he told me passionately. +> 'The fruit is named after us!'. He thumped his chest with his fist proudly. ' *We* are the Kiwis! '. + +He shared the sweetest stories about growing up in rural New Zealand, and all the little tidbits to go with it - which season the Kiwis ripen, how they celebrate Veteran's day, the red light in Parihaka, and many amazing insights of daily light. He even went out of his way to contact the folks I was set to set off to the islands with so I can get there easily. Man, Kiwi hospitality is the best. + +The Poor Knights are a famous international diving spot, rich with sealife - a magnificent kelp forest lays at the waters around the island, and the waters teem with fish, seals and doplhins. Snorkeling in the Poor Knights was utterly unlike anything I've seen or done before. + +![Tutukaka Adventure](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/tutukaka_adventure.jpg) +Off we go! + +First, the water was *cold*. **Really** cold. The only prior experience I had is in Eilat's Red sea, which as always warm - that was quite a shock! + +Second - it is open water. The islands are *way* out there, and unlike the Red Sea's sheltered bay, the cold, cold ocean will swallow you up in a fraction of a moment if you're not vigilangt. +And finally, as soon as you gather the courage to dip your head in, you feel as if you're in a different galaxy. + +Small, blue lumiscent motes float around in the water, which you can see with unbelieveable clarity - alongside the schools of fish scurrying in and out of small caverns, sealife sweeping through the rich kelp forests, sponges on the seabed, and the waves crashing and bubbling against the island's rock. Unusual, colourful fish swim around you, and there are many little nooks and crannies in the island's layout you can explore - which give respite from the strong, open ocean currents. As soon as you start drifting too far from the island, the wrath of the cold sea starts seeping into you, threatening to carry you away. And when that happens (as you pursue some fascinating thing swimming away), you'll be glad to find shelter amongst the rocks. + +![Tutukaka Sea](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/tutukaka_sea.jpg) +Can you tell where the sea ends and the skies began? The tranquil sea goes on and on and on, forever. Imaging drifting helplessly in *that*. + +Snorkeling was seriously difficult - much more taxing than I had imagined, and it took every bit of my strengh to keep on exploring. At one point, turning around towards the boat to find my bearings, I found myself face to face with a *massive* seal! + +Altought probably just curious, the seals look suprisingly threatning up close! + +It was amazing listening to the wail of the waves crashing against the coast, watching flocks of seabirds fly overhead, and then sink down into the cold, blue alien world below. It was an experience I will never forget. + +My excitment was shared by my peers that day, all experienced divers - and what struck me is how the guides, who'd been on site hunderds of time, were just as excited and amazed as I was. They later told me they've done this for years and years, and the sense of unearthly wonder never fades away. + +Life is probably not easy living rural and on lower pay - but getting to experience something like that so often? that is something I think about every now and again to this day. + + +![Tutukaka Onward](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/tutukaka_onward.jpg) +Many seabirds make their way onto the islands, and stay there alone - Poor Knights is a marine reserve, and almost no one is allowed onto the islands. + +Also on Poor Knights is Rikoriko cave, one of the largest seacaves in the world. Acoustics in the cave are great - our guide played a cheery flute to demonstrate! + +![Rikoriko](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/rikoriko.JPG) +It's quite massive - this is on a two-level boat, mind you. + +![Tutukaka Sky](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/tutukaka_sky.jpg) +I enjoyed an amazingly clear day on my excursion. Lucky! + + +And finally, Whangarei was also my first contact with the Kiwi's national icon - the Kiwi. +Whangarei has a Kiwi house, and I even managed to snatch a grainy, offputting picture of one! + +![Whangarei Kiwi](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/whangarei/whangarei_kiwi.jpg) +The special Kiwi house flips the day/night cycle for them - it is pitch dark, lit red (which the near-blind Kiwis cannot see), and absolutely no light or sound is allowed to avoid disturbing them. + + +Whangarei has been a surprise hit in my journey and one of my very favorites spots. I'm very glad I got to experience it. diff --git a/2021-11-13-mahler-titan-ressurection.md b/2021-11-13-mahler-titan-ressurection.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..63ffe22 --- /dev/null +++ b/2021-11-13-mahler-titan-ressurection.md @@ -0,0 +1,46 @@ +--- +layout: post +title: "Epic Symphony - 'Titan', 'Ressurection' [Mahler]" +category: [Classical Ramblings] +date: 2021-11-13 17:02:00 +0200 +--- +>A symphony is like the world. It must encompass everything. + +\- Gustav Mahler + +It's time to step into the world as painted by Gustav Mahler. + +Conductor and composer Gustav Mahler was and remains a controversial figure in classical music. +A conductor by trade, Mahler wrote in his spare time and during vacations, and he composed one thing and one thing only - symphonies of scale and ambition yet to be seen. + +For some, Mahler's music is excessive, incoherent and eccentric. Others swear by Mahler as the height of all western classical music, and perhaps even all music, ever. + +Mahler was one of the first composers I've heard in my journey, and the very first I stumbled into organically. I've gained some foothold in his music, but remained conflicted between these two views as a whole - is what I'm hearing really over the top, bombastic musical nonsense, or the greatest symphonic masterpieces of all time? + +I remained conflicted until very recently - when the local Israeli Philharmonic chose no other than Mahler's first, *'Titan'*, to celebrate its' 85th anniversery. +I listened to it a few days before the concert to try and take it in - and on my first listen, I was sorely dissapointed. It felt slow, bloated and lacking a clear direction. +However, one of the very first tennets of classical I've learned is that it should not be judged on the first listen, nor the second, perhaps not even the third. So I listened again. +And again. And again. + +I grew gradually warmer to it. It's far from my favourite, sure, but it has its' moments. Its' moods. I was ready, and excited, to hear it in person. +Hearing it in the concert hall, I felt a *click*, and *'Titan'* finally made sense. + +As I may have mentioned, classical music is massively varied between eras - and each tends to value some principle of music above the others. +Baroque music tends to be centered about praise to a higher power - be it God, man or nature. Classical greatly expands the foundation and focuses on the form, elegance and high artistry of the music. Romantic builds upon these instruments to convey strong emotion. And the modern era wonderfully draws from all of these and shoots off in a billion different ways. Once people gained access to classical music by other means, it has become exponentially more varied. How wonderful! + +Mahler's music does none of these things, which is why it was hard for me to grasp. It uses many of those forms and attitudes to do one thing - to paint a picture. To immerse you in it completely. To create a world. + +Listening to the first, you are perhaps a wanderer, setting about in the height of spring. You enjoy the warm sound, the calls of birds, and the sweet musk of springs - all conveyed beautifully in the epic, glacial intro, the trills of winded instruments, and the joyous melody of the celli. You draw further and further into the spring, the music rising in intensity and volume as you do so - horns declare proudly, the string perform sweeping manuevers, and the lyre (there's a lyre!) accents it all wonderfully. There are several looming, ominous bass statements - a foreshadow of things to come. + +The second movement can be seen as an expedition into the spring - still joyous and sweet, but more focused. It is, however, more conflicted - and suddenly the third movements sets in, the motif an Austrian folk song (I was very surprised to recognise the melody from somewhere!), mournfully weaved into the symphony. Bouts of Jewish Kleizmer music burst in and out, breaking the tension out of nowhere, only to slip back into the folk song dramatically. And, of course, a powerful finale encompassing all those conflicting, strong emotions and moods and bringing it all to a close. + +The purpose of Mahler's music dawned on me when making myself aware to the atmosphere in the concert hall as it played - how the listeners are at the edge of their seats, how the tension in the air builds and unfolds, how the colourful bits and pieces flare up and go away as they affect the mood. It draws you in - until you're not just listening to a piece of music. You're wholly immersed in something else. + +Once that understanding had sunk in (and with some downtime, of course), I felt ready for what many deem as Mahler's best work - the second symphony, *'Resurrection'*. + +# Ressurection +Mahler's second is a ***gargantuan*** symphony, clocking in at about 90 minutes spread across five movements. While the length makes it a daunting listen, going through with it is taking a journey like no other - through Mahler's view of life, beauty, and the afterlife. Using the tools and ideas established in the first symphony, Mahler takes world building up several notches and creates a symphony that truly lives up to his famous quote at the head of this Ler. + +Each movement of the symphony tackles the questions of life, beauty, and afterlife from a different point of view - is life beautiful and worth living? is it cruel and sad? is it meaningless? + +I've yet to fully process this symphony - such a scale and theme requires plenty of times to fully realise. Evident in this symphony, however, are a passion and love of music as deep as one could imagine - and I think any attempt in answering these difficult questions (assuming there is an answer) is a noble undertaking - and well worth a listen. diff --git a/2021-11-19-northland-bay-of-islands.md b/2021-11-19-northland-bay-of-islands.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dae8020 --- /dev/null +++ b/2021-11-19-northland-bay-of-islands.md @@ -0,0 +1,225 @@ +--- +layout: post +title: "Northland & The Bay of Islands" +category: [Travel] +date: 2021-11-07 20:05:00 +0200 +--- +![The Bay of Islands](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/paihia_california.jpg) +The warm waters of the Bay of Islands is the gateway to beaches, doplhins, islands, and a good time. + +I've learned from my mistakes in Whangarei and arrived in the warm coastal town of Paihia adequately dressed for warm weather, and on a Friday. +Paihia is a fashionable surfer's haven, and the gateway to Aoteraroa's Northland - home to Kaori forests, giant sand dunes, and the mythical Cape Reinga. + +The township itself lays in the heart of the Bay of Islands (144, in fact) - which is an important historic site and a beautiful subtropical haven. +The Bay is where the white man ( *Pakeha* in Te Reo ) first settled Aotearoa, and is the site of founding of the modern day New Zealand. Going against the grain of beach-goers and party animals who swore I'd end up staying in Paihia for months as they did, I went off to see some history the very next day. + + +# Waitangi Treaty Grounds +On February 6th 1840, British diplomat James Busby met with a coalition of Maori chiefs to sign the Treaty of Waitangi ( *'Te Tiritiri o Waitangi'* ), which puts New Zealand under a British protectorate, recognizes Maori ownership of the land and the forests and gives them the rights of British subjects. Interestingly, relations between the British and the Maori began peacefully and with agreement (against the French in this case), and generally remained so - at least in comparison to neighboring Australia and the crown's British India. There had been conflict and discrimination against the Maori - Te Reo nearly died out from being repressed, lands were confiscated, and disease harmed the Maori greatly - yet it's a far cry from other tragic stories from the British Empire. + + A few minutes of brazen walk from Paihia puts you in the Waitangi grounds, now a museum commemorating the treaty. + +![Path to Waitangi](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/waitangi_boat.jpg) +Maori culture is celebrated in the Bay - this is a Maori style Waka for a contest I spotted on the way to Waitangi. While not clearly visible, you can just see the Maori naval emblem at the rear, and the Maori flag on the boat to the left. + +Waitangi offers guided tours - and my group was assigned a kind, humorous and rather large (it's relevant!) Maori gentleman. He told us many interesting facts and tidbits of the pre-Pakeha Maori: + +> Don't look at me as an example - the average Maori was a *lean* specimen. Why, aside from birds and fish, there was not much meat going around in those days. It wasn't until you brought your Colonel* we got big! + +*Referring to KFC - which is quite popular in NZ. + +He also had some to say on the conflicts that did occur after the signing: + +> When the British came here, they considered us primitives - with just sticks and stones. But once the fighting started, believe me - they were *amazed* at what we could do with sticks and stones! + +He told us of how the Maori built their Wakas by tying together large logs of Kaori or Rimu with tight-woven Harakeke flax and treating them with salt water, and how roving Maori parties traded, bickered and warred, alongside many other interesting stories. + +Up until the signing, things were generally peaceful - the first Pakeha were missionaries, who built small colonial houses with permission of the local chiefs, and relations were amicable. Then came American whalers from the newly-independent United States, who came to drink and whore in nearby Russel - and warned the Maori of both the British and the French. They inspired the Maori, who then drafted a naval emblem and formed a coalition - [The United Tribes of New Zealand](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Tribes_of_New_Zealand), so they could join the thriving international maritime trade. + +The British were keen to annex the newly found New Zealand since first discovered by James Cook in 1769 - and sent the diplomat James Busby as resident Englishman to try and come to some understanding. Busby was wildly successful - and under his influence, the treaty was signed in 1840. + +![Busby House](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/busby_house.jpg) +James Busby's colonial homestead. + +![Busby Room](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/busby_homestead.jpg) +![From This Parlour](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/from_this_parlour.jpg) +It really is a sweet little house. + +The agreement was signed just outside the house it was drafted in, and a flagstaff was erected at the point of signing. + +![Waitangi Flagstaff](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/waitangi_flagstaff.jpg) +I can't see how anyone could be disagreeable around the scenic sights of the bay. + +The Treaty Grounds also house some Maori Taonga (treasures), including a grand Waka Taua (war canoe) and a beautiful carved Marae (meeting house). + +![Waitangi Marae](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/waitangi_marae.jpg) +Maori Hakas (war dances) are performed here regularly by Maori folk in traditional grab - a cheesy tourist show but fun nonetheless. The performers I watched cheekily remarked 'Yes, We speak English!' after the Haka, prompting surprised laughter from many of the tourists. + +![Waitangi Waka](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/waitangi_waka.JPG) +This Waka Taua is meant to impress and intimedate your foes - with ominous carvings, a metal front and strong coloration. It sails once a year on Waitangi Day - February 6th. + +# Russel Kororareka +A short ferry ride from Paihia stands the historic town of Russel Koroareka*. +*It is customary to use both Maori and Pakeha names in towns that carry both. + +The guide in Waitangi told us a fact I reflected upon often in my travels across Aotearoa. Maori place name often stem from stories and folklore - and both quaint Kororareka and the nearby Kerikeri have origin stories. Kororareka translates to *'Sweet Penguin'* - comprised of *Korora* (the local Little Blue Penguins, or Fairy Penguins in Australia) and *Reka* (sweet). Unfortunately, the intention isn't as friendly as you might guess - remember, meat is sparse in old Aotearoa. The story tells of a great war chief who fought off an invading tribe - and sustained a grave wound in the process. As he lay injured after the battle, an aide brought him penguin broth to restore his strength. All he could do was mutter in delight- *'The sweet penguin! how it restores my strength!'* (paraphrasing) - I do not recall if he made it. +Kerikeri is named after a time the local Maori chief showed the newly-arrived Pakeha pastors how they farm the land - only to witness the Europeans plow the land with metal much, much faster - to his great jealousy. He demanded of his workers - *'Kerikeri! Kerikeri!'* (faster! faster!), and the name stuck. + +Now, Kororareka. + +An offshoot of the nearby Maori town of Okiato, Kororareka was something like a town in the 1830's - the very first western-style settlement in Aotearoa and first real point of contact for the Maori with the world. Kororareka became a site of taverns, brothels and dubious morales - much to the dismay of the early missionaries - and it was nicknamed *The Hell Hole of the Pacific*, known to many whalers, sailors, captains and crew. Today it is a peaceful little tourist town, full of boutique shops, restaurants and hotels. + +![Russel Church](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/russel_church.jpg) +Christ Church is the oldest and very first church in New Zealand, established by the missionaries. It is still active today. + +![Russel Church Interior](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/russel_church_interior.jpg) +This screams '1800s missionaries' to me. + +![Russel Whalers](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/russel_whalers.jpg) +Russel was a whaling hub since the Maori settled it - groups of whalers would venture out in boats as small as this one and hunt them. + +![Whakakotahitanga](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/whakakotahitanga.jpg) +The Bay is rich with history. + +# Northland & Cape Reinga +The Bay of Islands was also my excursion point north, into Aotearoa's upper reaches of Northland - with a tour operator who took us through it all in a single day. Though relatively small, Northland is full of wonderful things to see - the first of which was the ancient Puketi Kaori forest. + +![Puketi Forest](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/puketi_forest.jpg) +Though a shadow of the great Kaori forests that covered Aotearoa, Puketi is still beautiful - the pictures don't do it justice. + +![Puketi Walkway](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/puketi_walkway.jpg) +This walkway was constructed especially for the Queen of England when she visited here, around the 1950's. + +Puketi is also one of the last places where you can see decades-old Kaori. + +![Kaori Closeup](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/kaori_closeup.jpg) +Compare this proud old Kaori to the saplings at Whangarei - and see just what was lost. + + +From Puketi we continued the journey further up the slender coastline on Aotearoa passing sleepy towns, forest and avocado groves, and eventually reaching the northernmost point. Where the Pacific Ocean meets the Tasman sea lies a mythical, sacred site to the Maori. + +In Maori mythology, when a person dies, the spirit begins its journey towards Hawaiiki - the legendary Maori homeland. + +It passes through the places of its life - its hometown, the course of its journeys, places of its failures, successes and loves. Leaving those behind, the spirit begins the final journey north, across Aotearoa, to the point of farewell - Te Rerenga Wairua ( *Leaping place of the Spirits* ) - colloquially known as Cape Reinga. Cape Reinga is a haunting place - and one's mind can only begin racing when laying eyes upon it. + +![Reinga Manuka](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/reinga_manuka.JPG) + +![Reinga Lighthouse](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/reinga_lighthouse.JPG) + This place has two guardians - the old, lonely lighthouse... +![Ancient Survivor](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/ancient_survivor.JPG) +...and the ancient Pohutukawa tree - the place of descent into Reinga (' *Underworld* ') in Maori folklore. The spirit is said to slide down the roots and into the ocean after taking a last look at Aotearoa, and emerge in Hawaiiki. + +![Reinga Seaside](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/reinga_seaside.JPG) +The walk to the lighthouse amid fierce salt breeze and rolling fog will no doubt fill your mind with reflections and memories. + +![Reinga Sign](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/reinga_sign.jpg) +![Cape Reinga](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/cape_reinga.JPG) +![Reinga Wind](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/reinga_wind.jpg) + +Once all that serious business was dealt with, it was time for some fun - sliding down giant sand dunes! + +Just south of Cape Reinga are the Te Paki sand dunes - and as it turns out, tour operators fill the buses with sliding boards and everyone can *zoop* down the dune! + +![Te Paki](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/te_paki_profile.jpg) +The down we had chosen was about 15 meters in height - and quite steep! + +![Te Paki Overhead](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/te_paki_overhead.jpg) +If you're not brave enough to slide down, you can also *zoop* sideways. + +The dunes are created from winds from both the Tasman Sea and the Pacific Ocean shuttling sand from their respective directions. Since Northland is so snakelike, all of these sand deposits gather roughly in the middle - creating giant dunes. + +The strong winds and slender topography also created another Aotearoan wonder - the Ninety Mile Beach. +This massive coastline is both incredibly deep, pristine, and flat - our bus could comfortably *drive* on the beach without interrupting families camping, people swimming and surfers. + + +![Nintey Mile Beach](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/ninety_mile_beach.jpg) +The beach. Is. Massive. +![Nintey Mile Seashell](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/ninety_mile_seashell.jpg) +And amazingly clean!. + +# Urapukapuka +Finally, my last order of business in Paihia was what I had intentionally meant to do in the Hauraki Gulf - camp on an island! +Luckily, the Bay of Islands had a great candidate as well - the island of Urapukapuka! ( *'Grove of the PukaPuka trees'* ). + +Ignoring warnings of bad weather and the fact that there's not a lot to do on Urapukapuka, I set out by ferry the very next day - which ended up as a bizzare, oddly tranquil experience I remember fondly and was determined not to repeat. The ways of the mind are truly wonderous. + +I was the only passenger on my ferry for Urapukapuka (the rest continued, uhm, elsewhere), and had the island mostly for myself for my overnighter. + +![Urapukapuka Ferry](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_ferry.jpg) +Uh oh. Did I make a mistake? + +So. What do you see on a full 24 hours alone on a random island in New Zealand? + +First - sheep. + +![Urapukapuka Sheep](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_sheep.jpg) +Yea, we're just chilling, bro. + +And like anywhere New Zealand, the view is gorgeous. + +![Urapukapuka Foliage](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_foliage.jpg) +![Urapukapuka Seaside](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_seaside.JPG) +![Urapukapuka Trail](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_trail.JPG) +![Urapukapuka Bay](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_bay.jpg) +![Bay of Islands](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/bay_of_islands.JPG) +Great view of the bay from Urapukapuka, reminding you you're not *that* far out. Almost like a backyard, really. + +The weather in the bay is extremely fickle. You're drowning in rain for a moment, and cook in the sun not five minutes after that. + +![Fickle Urapukapuka](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/fickle_urapukapuka.jpg) +Storm clouds come and go and assault you with strong gusts of saltwind and freezing rain at random. Look to the skies! + +Urapukapuka is also a nice birding spot - while most of the island is a livestock pasture, the native bush is being replanted, and the birds return with it. + +![Oyster Catcher](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/oyster_catcher.jpg) +The common Oyster Catchers prowl the shores looking for a meal. +![Oyster Catchers](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/oyster_catchers.jpg) +It met its mate on the way. Be a friend like an oyster catcher. + +The wooded areas were once the home of the Kutuku (White Heron), a rare bird in Aotearoa precious to the Maori. It is hoped that they will return once the island reverts to the original foliage, painstakingly replanted over the years. + +![Urapukapuka Kutuku](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_kutuku.jpg) +The Kutuku carries strong significane in Maori mythology for its white, elegant feathers. It has also gathered stories and myths around it which vary from tribe to tribe. + +I really enjoyed seeing the intertwining of the peaceful sheep next to the wooded, birdfull bush - a clear boundary cuts through the island. + +![Aotearoa](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/new_zealand.JPG) +This is one of the most iconic pictures I've taken on my trip - I feel it signifies what Aotearoa New Zealand is perfectly. The right is classic British pasture, which is pleasant but also a great loss compared to the natural habitat. To the left - resurging local bush, signifying the return of Maori culture and restoration of native Aotearoa flora and fauna. It also houses a small Maori sacred site. + + +On the camp grounds, the noisy, rude Tui birds flock to the Harakeke plants around the fence, getting drunk on the nectar (literally drunk - it often ferments), and gaggles of Pukekos cowardly flee from you with inelegance. It really is an ungraceful bird. + +![Urapukapuka Dawn](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_dawn.jpg) +Not a bad view to wake up to. +![Urapukapuka Dusk](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_dusk.jpg) +I was sitting near my tent enjoying a wonderful apple while watching this sunset. Life is good. + +Once settling in for the night, it also became clear that I was quite ill-prepared, which I knew well in advance and chose to ignore. That is just the kind of person I am. The plan had several faults: + +- I got lazy buying food. Urapukapuka was the site of a culinary tragedy, which will not see the light of day here. +- My stuff was seriously heavy. Too heavy for an overnighter. And that is without the food... +- In my arrogance, I strongly underestimated how cold it gets in a small island at night. (Spoiler: very.). + +I *did* manage to sleep - a whole day of climbing around Urapukapuka certainly helped. + +![Urapukapuka Night](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/urapukapuka_night.jpg) + +Once weathering the night, I explored some more - some of the shots above are from day 2. When making my way back to the ferry pier, I was surprised to find a cafe - which only operates around ferry departures and arrivals. Since a large arrival was scheduled, I could sit down for my first ever Mussel stew. Awesome! +I made sure to go for seafood at every opportunity in my travels afterwards - the stuff is great! + +And just as a final treat, we were escorted back by a pod of dolphins! + +![Surface Dolphin](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/surface_dolphin.jpg) +Doplhin sightings are common in New Zealand, and a great joy for the first, tenth, and millionth time! + +![Dolphin](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/dolphin.jpg) +![Jumping Dolphin](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/jumping_dolphin.jpg) +Showoff! + +Overall, Northland was one of my longest an most meaningful stops - I learned a great deal about New Zealand's history and saw very diverse places in a very short time. I had also explored the area on foot and on various ferry rides - there was always something to see! + +![Hole In The Rock](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/hole_in_the_rock.jpg) +The Hole in The Rock next to Paihia has a very original name. It was also a very nauseating boat ride - shy only of Rakiura in the deep south. + +![Kiwi for Kiwi](https://ler.pukeko.xyz/assets/aotearoa/northland/kiwi_for_kiwi.jpg) +Spotted in the local 'Around the Bay' hiking trail from Paihia to Russell. It just makes me happy.